Style Instruction for Straight Line Jackets using Pattern 300 300 Classic Vest Pattern + Bust Alterations All patterns use 5/8" seam allowances unless otherwise noted! Purchase any style envelope 301 through 307, and choose another 301 though 307 for free.
301 Big Jacket Plus Use Master Pattern 300 for this envelope
A slightly fitted no-dart vest pattern technique. View A has couched yarn designs and small tassels back and front, a lower front pocket. View B is couched in novelty thread stripes and Miracle Stitcher (Janome machine accessory) squiggles in every direction, button loops. View C is a garden of hollyhocks with Miracle Stitcher stems, frayed fabric flowers. All are lined.	Suggested Fabrics These jackets are both silk matka, but would work just as well in other silks, wools, linens, or any suit weight fabric. Both are lined. View A needs 1/4 yd same color fabric (perhaps a silky crepe) for bias strips. Yardage Requirements View A 45" fabric XS, S, M = 3 yd L, XL, XXL = 4 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 1/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 1/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/8 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 3 yd L, XL, XXL = 4 1/2 yd View B 45" fabric XS, S, M = 2 7/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 3/4 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 1/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 1/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/8 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 2 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 3/4 yd
302 Piecing The Big Jacket Use Master Pattern 300 for this envelope
Make incredible use of small amounts of several fabrics. View A is a combination of pieced city skyscrapers with the Taj Mahal quilted above. View B begins with a fish painted silk scarf and pieces an ocean around it. Both are lined and have bias bound edges.	Suggested Fabrics Mine are thin scarf weight silks, but can be any fabric you choose. These are quilted to thin sheets of polyester fleece, but cotton flannel works well, too. Yardage Requirements Views A & B fabric combinations total including binding XS, S, M = 2 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 45" mounting fleece or flannel* XS, S, M = 2 1/2 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 yd *if flannel, get extra to pre-shrink 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/8 yd
303 Artistic Admiration Use Master Pattern 300 for this envelope
The basic 300 pattern lends itself to embellishment techniques used abundantly on these two lined jackets. View A is boiled wool, a machine knit yardage later shrunk or fulled for the end products. It is generously embellished with variegated hand-dyed mohair yarn couched on by machine and beads stitched by hand. View B is a hand woven wool and mohair front and back with wool crepe sleeves to supplement the yardage. Mohair and metallic yarn is couched on to blend the two fabrics. Both are cut shorter than 300 pattern and round up at sides and front.	Suggested Fabrics Any fabric or combination of fabrics may be used successfully. Typically jacket weights work best of any chosen fiber content. No interfacing is needed with the boiled wool. Loosely hand wovens are safely held together by a supple fusible interfacing such as Textured Weft. Yardage Requirements View A 45" fabric XS, S, M = 2 1/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 1/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 3/4 yd *hand made fabric widths may vary so plan accordingly View B 45" fabric XS, S, M = 2 1/2 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 1/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 1/2 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 4 yd L, XL, XXL = 5 3/8 yd *if combination of fabrics varied width, these amounts will change
304 Match Play Use Master Pattern 300 for this envelope
Using pattern #300 pieces, View A matches herringbone vertically striped fabric with shaped horizontal seaming, inseam buttonholes and pockets. View B is a simple jacket suitable for matching a large motif fabric design and welt pockets. View C belted vest has drop shoulders matching a one-way stripe, suede trim.	Suggested Fabrics View A best in solids to show seaming detail, but instructions included for matching stripes. Any fabric, patterned or solid will work for these jackets, not just to-be-matched fabrics. Linens, rayons, wools, cottons, silks of suit weight are good, as are lighter weights made heavier with fusible interfacing or sewn-in layers. Plaids or designs of high contrast can be used by removing armscye dart. Yardage Requirements Yardages for solid fabric with no match included. If matching the design, purchase one repeat extra. Repeat is the distance from the start of the design or pattern to the start of the next identical design. When matching, get more, not less. View A 45" fabric XS, S, M = 3 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 1/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 1/2 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 3/4 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 2 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 7/8 yd View B 45" fabric XS, S, M = 2 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 1/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 2 7/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/2 yd View C 45" fabric XS, S, M = 1 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 1 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 yd 45" suede trim XS, S, M = 3/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3/8 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 1 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 yd
RETIRED - No longer available 305 Waistline Technique Use Master Pattern 300 for this envelope
This straight lined jacket pattern can easily have waistline shape added. View A has a high neck, short sleeves, inverted stitched waistline tucks and a longer hemline. View B is a shaped V neck with bound edges, waistline multiple tucks, one bound buttonhole. View C has an extended neck closing point. Its multiple exterior shallow darts are imaginative tree trunks, a myriad of French knots forming the branches and leaves.	Suggested Fabrics Any suit weight fabrics will work well in linen, silk, wool, novelty jacquared, etc. Fusible interfacing supports the shape and a lining may be used or omitted. Yardage Requirements View A 45" fabric XS, S, M = 2 7/8 L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 1/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 1/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 3/4 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 2 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/2 yd View B 45" fabric XS, S, M = 2 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 3/4 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 2 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/8 yd View C 45" fabric XS, S, M = 2 7/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 4 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 3 1/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 7/8 yd
306 Collars and Pockets Use Master Pattern 300 for this envelope
Use Pattern 300 pieces. View A has an asymmetrical collar, diagonal twin needle pintucks, in-seam pocket and sleeve vents. View B uses the same collar piece in a symmetrical way, slot pockets and bound buttonholes, waistline shaping and sleeve vents. View C has its own collar, welt pockets, bound buttonholes and semi-shaping. All three jackets are lined.	Suggested Fabrics Any suit weight fabrics work well. Those pictured are all wool crepe. Fusible interfacings such as Satin Weave, ArmoWeft, Textured Weft are recommended. Yardage Requirements View A 45" fabric XS, S, M = 3 5/8 L, XL, XXL = 4 1/4 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 5/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/2 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 1/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 3/4 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 3 3/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 4 1/2 yd View B 45" fabric XS, S, M = 3 1/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 4 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 3/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 1/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 3 1/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 4 yd View C 45" fabric XS, S, M = 3 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 1/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 2 7/8 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 3/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/4 yd 30" fusible interfacing XS, S, M = 3 3/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 5/8 yd
307 High Necked Harmony Use Master Pattern 300 for this envelope
Use Pattern 300 pieces with some modifications. Simple lines allow the fabric to take center stage or provide a background for elaborate embellishments. View A instructs to work with crinkle fabrics (flat fabrics work well, too), and for bobbin work as embellishment. View B transposes the armscye dart to the waist adding fullness and a drawstring. Border View C with an exterior facing-band of another fabric. A single neckline button secures it. Views B and C can include lining if appropriate.	Suggested Fabrics These can be either jackets (lined or unlined) or simply tops to wear with skirt or pants. Any fabric will work, wovens or knits. View A is stabilized crinkles by fusing Satin Weave or other fusible interfacing throughout. View B has a little interfacing in facing areas only. View C has none. Yardage Requirements View A 30" fabric XS, S, M = 4 1/2 L, XL, XXL = 5 1/2 yd 45" fabric XS, S, M = 3 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/2 yd 60" lining XS, S, M = 2 3/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 1/8 yd 45" lining XS, S, M = 2 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 yd 30" interfacing XS, S, M = 4 1/2 yd if crinkle 2 3/4 yd if flat L, XL, XXL = 5 1/2 yd if crinkle 3 1/4 yd if flat View B 45" fabric XS, S, M = 3 yd L, XL, XXL = 4 yd 60" fabric XS, S, M = 2 1/4 yd L, XL, XXL = 3 yd 30" interfacing XS, S, M = 1 1/8 yd L, XL, XXL = 1 1/8 yd View C 45" fabric XS, S, M = 2 1/4 yd with back seam L, XL, XXL = 3 1/2 yd with back seam 60" fabric XS, S, M = 1 3/4 yd without back seam L, XL, XXL = 2 1/4 yd with back seam All Sizes Contrast Fabric Edges 1/4 - 3/8 yd
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