Darts, Darts, Darts Back to Fitted Fashion. Fitted fits so many figures. Using darts to create this look does not have to be difficult.
I make test patterns from inexpensive check gingham so when I put it on, I can easily see vertical and horizontal lines where adjustments need to be made. Don't expect this project to look like a dinner dress. We are laying the groundwork for proper fitting procedures so your fashion projects turn out correct every time. Take your measurements accurately. If you fudge, nothing will turn out properly. It does not matter if your tag reads size 6 or 16 if it doesn't fit! Get into your pattern library and choose a simple line shell or bodice pattern. This is the basis of your new pattern. Get your tracing paper out. Take your measurements and adjust the pattern accordingly.
area total front-right side back-left side bust measurement - - - bust point to bust point - - - shoulder to bust point - - - back neckline to waistline - - - front neckline to waistline - - - shoulder length - - - sleeve length - - - neckline - - - armhole - - - top arm - - - wrist - - -
In my fitting patterns, I typically taper out wider in the armscye as well as the side seam. If the garment will have shoulder pads, taper up higher at shoulder's edge to allow that space. Once the size alterations are finished and you have a pattern corrected to fit beautifully, the fun of designing is ready to be done.
check out these reference projects 412, 504, 602, 1103, 1503, 1702
	Your basic pattern has two darts - at the side and the waist. We'll first combine the two into one dart just to grasp the concept. Darts never come all the way to the bust apex. They are 3/4" to 1" short of the bust point generally. For this manipulation, clip all the way to the point. The dart points could be shortened later. Let's see how simple it is to move this dart to any position for design reasons, maintaining the same shape no matter where it is.
	Imagine how darts located at different points would look and what garment style they would look best with.
	A common dart is a sleeveless shell to wear under a suit jacket. Extra width has been added to the sides for a loose casual fit. The neckline was lowered a little, length added to tuck in a skirt. Isn't this easy? Like playing paper dolls.
	Move this dart all around clockwise and design others. In the armscye is a good place to put the dart because it's a little short one this way and really doesn't even show. This is good in a which which so often gaps at the armscye. This move happens by cutting a slash to the apex. Tape together the old dart and the new one automatically opens up.
	It could also go up to the shoulder corner. Sometimes this shows up as a flange only stitched in the shoulder seam. Could it be topstitched part way down? Does something here look not quite right? Are you wondering why the split at the dart here looks so big in the shoulder while it's so small in the armscye? Despite the big difference in their size, the shape is identical. Here's why:
Think of a 12" pie, cut in eighths. That would be a pretty hefty slice right? Think of a 6" pie cut the same way. You might be a little hungry as there's not as much in this little slice. But look at the angle at the point, it's identical. That means the shape in a bodice would also be the same even though the armscye dart is small because it's closer to the bust. The shoulder dart is so large because it's farther away from the bust.

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