Let's Make Fabric    Silk Jacket on the cover of Series 8
layout of 45" silk
Layout of fashion accent colors. 45" width
You will need approximately 1/8 yard of 5 accent colors of silk. You also need 2 yards of the background fabric, again silk. You will be creating a long vertical strips with three parts: top is background fabric, middle is the accent fabric, bottom is the background fabric. The length of the upper and lower portions depend upon the length of the middle (discussed below). The average finished strip is 1 1/2" wide. Its length is 18" long cut into 2 pieces (discussed below), so each strip would actually produce a 3" width. 3 divided into this 45" jacket is 15 strips needed.
Seam allowances are 1/4" so these are added. Cut the strips in three size widths: (a)1-1/2", (b) 2", (c) 2-1/2".

Stack your 5 accent colors and cut them all at once with a rotary cutter on a mat for perfect accuracy.

The stacked strips were separated into 3 groups to divide both colors and widths into a complete mix-up. Each of these new stacks were cut into 2 pieces from the 18" total length. Group1 lengths are 8-1/2" and 9-1/2" Group 2 lengths are 8" and 10" Group 3 are 7-1/2 and 11-1/2"

Cut the background fabric into the 3 widths, but do not cut into the lengths yet.
cutting mat
Cut a base for the quilted jacket of thin clothing fleece (not fusible) or cotton flannel (pre-washed to shrink, then press). A simple pattern works best. Arrange and re-arrange the multi-colored strips across the jacket midsections until you like the melange of color, width and height. Overlap all thee 1/2" so they fit the base sections the same as when 1/4" seams are sewn. Lay out all 3 jacket body pieces (bodice back and left and right fronts) to determine the proper layout.

Fill in above and below the multi-colors (middle patterned section on right) with same width background fabric strips. Overlap them 1/2" for seams and cut off top and bottom length - BUT leave a little excess beyond the edge of the pattern. You will trim this once you have the fabrics correctly positioned. Number the bottom of the bottom pieces on the excess length.
layout of silk strips
When all strips are laid to your satisfaction, stitch each vertical line of 3 together so you have long vertical strips (1/4" seams). Press the seams all one way, toward the darker color if you can see through it at all. Use fine thread for thin fabric and a small needle.

Next stitch these long strips together crosswise in the properly numbered sequence and press seams to one side. You have built a piece of fabric long and wide enough to cover your pattern pieces. If it isn't add more strips.

Position your pieced fabric, right side up, on top of the fleece or flannel precut base. Anchor all over with pins or basting stitches. Machine stitch to outline all "buildings" by stitching where seams come together. By "stitching in the ditch" this way, your thin thread shouldn't even show. Use either same color thread or monofilament thread.

NOTE: this is quilting the layers together and it might condense a bit so a bit of excess fabric all around the edges is a good idea.
trim silk edges

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